Vulcanite Bleaching Conundrum

I have an oxidized stem with 2 different metals attached to it. Normally I would soak in 50/50 bleach before sanding and buffing, but I'm concerned about pitting the metal. The logo looks like brass, but the end piece may be aluminum or zinc? Anyone have a suggestion?


The pics don't portray the severity of the deep olive-green oxidation.

I've heard it said that you can cover up logos with vaseline to protect them in the bleach bath. Never done it myself. I've bleached a few stems with metal inlays before, though, and never had any problems with damaging them. Brass, though- I wonder if that might turn green. I guess my only advice would be to try vaseline over the brass. Otherwise there's the Moo route, get some micro-mesh and go to town, skipping bleach altogether.

Thanks. I use the micro-mesh pads, but I find it's much less work when I bleach first.

I'd probably skip the bleach with a stem with a built in band like that. It will take more elbow grease, though, no doubt. I'd tape off the band, and work carefully around the logo inlay.

Perhaps Dwaugh will conduct an experiment for "The effects of acetone on vulcanite stems"

I'm sure I'm missing something basic but I don't understand the benefit of using bleach. If the bleach etches the vulcanite and leaves a rough surface that has to be buffed, why not eliminate the bleach process and simply buff the oxidation off?

IIRC Bleach is used because it also helps take away any ghosts left in the stem as well.

If the bleach leaves a gritty texture to the outside of the stem it seems it would do the same to the inside. A rough surface would be more difficult to clean afterwards than a smooth, slick surface. I don't mean to sound argumentative - I just don't understand.

Bleach just seems to do a thorough job, and the post-bleach smoothing is less work than it would take to sand off the oxidation. Plus sometimes if you just sand, it'll look like you've got it all but still taste like sulfur and turn green quickly thereafter.